Sunday, April 26, 2015

Golden Circle Tour - Iceland - 4 of 5

A first trip to Iceland requires a Golden Circle Tour, everybody does it!  We boarded a Reykjavik Excursions bus at 8:30am and headed out to visit the most famous tourist route in the country.


First stop, Friðheimar a 5,000 square meter greenhouse specializing in growing tomatoes (300 tons/year) year round. Iceland is incredibly self-sufficient, using geothermal hot water for heat, cold water for irrigation and hydro-electric and geothermal power for grow lights. Volcanic pumice (something they have in abundance) is used instead of soil for growing.  It's easier to control moisture and fertilization and can be used continuously for years. The only thing imported, from Holland, is bugs to eat any pests and bees to pollinate the tomato plants. Due to Iceland's isolation and northern latitude (read cold weather) there are few pests, diseases and weeds to affect their crops. Sounds like utopia for a farmer. 

the greenhouse sold tomato soup and bloody mary's as well as packaged tomato products to the tour group

Second stop, the Haukadalur geothermal area famous for its many large and small geothermal pools. The main attraction is Strokkur, a fountain geyser erupting every 4-8 minutes between 15-40m high.
The geyser first appeared in 1789 after an earthquake unblocked the natural underground conduit, another earthquake in early 20th century blocked it again. Not sure how this is done but the natural conduit was cleaned out in 1963 allowing it to erupt again. Strokkur is not to be confused with Geysir (original name!) close by that does not erupt on schedule.

Strokkur
this eruption was quite big and the wind was blowing in our direction... the kids got a bit wet
again, heavy snow... replaced by blue sky 30 minutes later!
The next stop is the stunning, Gullfoss, meaning golden waterfall in the Hvítá river canyon. One story says the name originated because of the golden color of the falls in the evening another story says the name comes from the rainbow that often appears above the waterfall spray when it's sunny. The area was established as a nature reserve in 1979.

top of the falls
looking down the gorge
Final stop of the day, Þingvellir National Park, founded in 1930 to commemorate the 1,000th anniversary of the founding of Iceland's parliament here in 930. This site is important to Icelanders as parliament established a common cultural heritage and national identity that still runs strong today. This is also a location where the continental drift between the North American and Eurasian plates are visible, the North American plate is higher than the Eurasian plate. 

 blue sky from one minute....
to snow the next
North American plate on the right
old lava flow

All day long the scenery en route is stunning.  After a full day of touring the bus driver makes multiple stops to drop off visitors at various hotels on the route back to Reykjavik.

Another amazing day in Iceland!









Sunday, April 19, 2015

Essential Iceland Tour by Super Jeep - 3 of 5


Our ride for the day!  These Super Jeeps are specially built in Reykjavik, a Mercedes Sprinter body on an American four wheel drive base. They are also privately owned and freelance with the tour companies. 

Snorri, our driver, in the Icelandic sweater on the left
We load up and head to the western fjords of Iceland. Incredible, beautiful, amazing scenery. I'm happy we visited when there was still snow on the mountains but next time would like to visit in the summer. 

There are not many forests in Iceland.  Our driver joked:  "What do you do if you get lost in an Icelandic forest?  Stand up... or stop drinking." As a result, most buildings in Iceland use concrete and metal for construction. 
Evelyn, I thought of you when I saw this barn!
fun, random structure!
Iceland is know for it's horses, the only breed of horse in the country was developed through select breeding from 9th and 10th century ponies brought over by Norse settlers.   The horses are small (730-840 pounds, 13-14 hands (52/56 inches)), long-lived, and hardy, with a double coat for extra insulation.  They are friendly, docile and don't spook easily because there are not many natural predators in Iceland. Disease is almost non-existent among the horses because Icelandic law prevents horses from being imported into the country and exported animals are not allowed to return. 

I think this mountain top is what inspired the design of Icelandic sweaters 
Icelanders are big believers in trolls and elves. It is common belief that trolls only come out at night and if they are exposed to sunlight they turn to stone. Roads have been built around large stones instead of moving them... so as not to anger the trolls.  Elves live under rocks... another reason not to move them. 

Grýla, is the mother of all trolls (literally and figuratively).  Her diet consists of eating naughty children, especially around Christmas time when she leaves her cave on the mountain to hunt for children. The threat of Grýla keeps Icelandic children in line!

the large stones in this field were trolls...
After an hour or so drive we make a stop at a modern day general store to pick up sandwiches, snacks and drinks for the day then head inland to the Icelandic Highlands....


and cross the narrowest bridge in the biggest Super Jeep.



First official stop on the tour is the Deildartunguhver Thermal Spring.  The hot water from this spring has been used for central heating since 1925.  Because the spring is only 19 meters above sea level the water needs to be pumped through the world's longest distribution pipe (74km long) constructed from 1979-81.  No kids, you cannot touch the water... it's 212F.


Second stop is the Hraunfossar waterfalls. These 1km wide falls are created from surface water and glacier melt runoff that runs through the pillow lava layers and flow into the Hvítá river.  A little further up the river is the Barnfoss (Children's waterfall).  This waterfall gets is name from an unfortunate event that happened long ago.  One Christmas the household at Hraunsás attended mass, two children stayed home, they went to the river, fell off a stone arch and drowned.  The mother had the arch destroyed to prevent another tragedy. 


Our third stop is at the 52km long Hallmundarhraun lava field created around 900AD.  This field has many lava caves, Víðgelmir is one of the larger caves in the area  We only explored the very opening of the cave because the roof of this lava tube has collapsed leaving just the entrances. Of course the snow pants we carried around all day were still in the jeep and the spikes for our shoes were in our suitcases. 
Hallmundarhraun lava field
important to stick to the marked path since the landscape is filled with unseen, snow covered holes and caves

When we returned to the jeep some friendly Icelandic horses had come over to say hello.  


We drove further up into the Highlands passing this 'gas station' on the way. 


Langjökull glacier (long glacier) is the second largest glacier in Iceland. We were the first ones to drive up onto the glacier this year. Snorri stopped several times to let air out of the tires for better traction.  It was slow going... but stunning and fun!

climbing Langjökull
nothing but white snow and blue sky
above the clouds and all the other mountains
I say ta-may-toe, you say ta-mah-toe... I say glay-sure, you say glaze-e-er!

on top of Langjökull
 
Audra, Simon, Gabby, Annabel and Sofia
finally making use of the snowpants
sun halo - the circle around the sun is from ice crystals in the atmosphere
After playing in the snow and eating lunch we headed down the other side of the glacier and through a valley where there's a lake in the summer time... hard all that snow melting.

Then the Super Jeep broke down.... in the middle of nowhere with no cell coverage.  The hose to the power steering broke, making it impossible to drive. Luckily there were two other jeeps with us, eleven of us piled into one car, eight in the other.

the speck in the middle of the photo is our jeep... we could still see it from our first pit stop to stretch our legs

beautiful spot to break down!

cozy ride!
the four wheel driving was so slow Snorri walked along with us
we drove to this little summer house and took a break to stretch our legs

After a second stop to stretch our legs, our guides were able to call for another car to meet us.  We continued to drive, finally seeing a road! At last we met up with our rescue car about 45 minutes outside Reykjavik. A second rescue car also met us to take Snorri back with parts to repair his Super Jeep. Apparently this is not an uncommon experience. Way past fika time we arrive back in Reykjavik around 7:30pm, or as Sofia describes it... the longest day ever.  

Of course, this was the kids' favorite experience in Iceland!